November on the Riviera

The wettest month of the year, and still not an empty one: a marathon, a national day, trade fairs in Cannes and three exhibitions worth the trip.

Sunday 8 November, Nice-Cannes marathon

The course starts in Nice and follows the whole coast to the Palais des Festivals in Cannes, through Saint-Laurent-du-Var, Cagnes, Villeneuve-Loubet, Antibes, Juan-les-Pins and Golfe-Juan. Entries are sold out. For visitors: the seafront road is disrupted all Sunday morning, and hotels in Nice and Cannes are full on the Saturday night. That day, take the train.

Practical. Official site ↗︎ · Nice tourist office ↗︎

10-11 November, no trains to Monaco and Menton

No trains run between Nice, Monaco, Menton and Ventimiglia from Tuesday 10 November (from 1.30am) until late afternoon on Wednesday 11 (services announced to resume around 5-5.30pm), and Monaco station is not served. From 9 to 15 November, TER regional trains from Marseille to Toulon and Nice also leave from Marseille-Blancarde, not Saint-Charles. All month and until 11 December, trains between Nice and Ventimiglia are also suspended from 10pm to 6am, Sunday to Thursday nights, with replacement coaches and buses. 11 November is also a holiday in France, but not in Monaco. Alternatives in Train or bus →

18-19 November, Monaco National Day

19 November is a public holiday in Monaco: government offices and many shops close, the Nouveau Musée National included. The 2026 programme is not out yet; in 2025 free fireworks went up over Port Hercule the evening before. A Thursday holiday means a long weekend, so Monaco hotels will be busier. Note too that Monday 2 November is a holiday in Monaco, because All Saints’ Day falls on a Sunday.

Practical. Government of Monaco ↗︎ · Monaco public holidays ↗︎ · Google Maps ↗︎

Cannes: trade fairs at the Palais all month

The Palais des Festivals lists The Luxe Convergence from 3 to 5 November, MAPIC on 3-4, the SOFCOT congress from 11 to 13, the World Quantum Cannes Festival on 17-18, then ILTM, the luxury travel fair, from 30 November to 3 December. Cannes’ big hotels are scarce and expensive on those dates: if you are not working there, stay elsewhere.

Practical. Palais agenda ↗︎ · ILTM Cannes ↗︎ · Google Maps ↗︎

From 21 November, Cannes Côte d’Azur Dance Festival

From 21 November to 6 December, at the Palais des Festivals and partner venues including Anthéa in Antibes and the Théâtre National de Nice. The best reason to be in Cannes this month.

Practical. Programme ↗︎

All month, Matisse and Alex Katz, Nice

At the Musée Matisse, Henri Matisse - Alex Katz. The Silence of Painting runs from 28 October to 18 January 2027. Winter hours from 1 November: 10am to 5pm. Closed on Tuesdays.

Practical. Exhibition ↗︎ · Musée Matisse ↗︎ · Google Maps ↗︎

Until 15 November, last weeks of Ellsworth Kelly

At the Fondation Maeght, Ellsworth Kelly, At the Edge of Water closes on 15 November. It is the region’s exhibition of the year: go in the first fortnight, on a weekday.

Practical. Fondation Maeght ↗︎ · Google Maps ↗︎

From 21 November, Bonnard reopens in Le Cannet

After its rehang, the Musée Bonnard reopens with Bonnard, the collections, until 23 May 2027. Before the 21st, the museum is closed.

Practical. Exhibition ↗︎ · Google Maps ↗︎

Also on

In Monaco, Victor Brauner, The Magical Adventure at Villa Paloma until 3 January. In Nice, Niki de Saint Phalle. Vive l’Amour #6, off-site from MAMAC, until 11 December. In Menton, The Beast’s Castle at the Cocteau Bastion until mid-November: the museum then closes from 14 to 24 November.

Practical. NMNM ↗︎ · MAMAC ↗︎ · Musée Cocteau ↗︎

What changes in November

Villa Ephrussi switches to winter hours on 2 November: 10am to 4.30pm on weekdays, 10am to 6pm at weekends and in school holidays. No Sunday Riviera Lines boats to Île Sainte-Marguerite from 1 November to 1 April. No lifeguarded beaches. And it rains: 138 mm on average in Nice, more than any other month. The full month-by-month →

Practical. Villa Ephrussi ↗︎ · Sainte-Marguerite boats ↗︎ · Météo-France ↗︎

Coming up at the end of November

Nice’s Christmas village opens on 27 November in the Jardin Albert-Ier and Place Masséna, daily until 3 January. The Masséna area gets busier, tram included.

Practical. Christmas village ↗︎ · Google Maps ↗︎

Our pick

Ellsworth Kelly before the 15th, Matisse and Alex Katz on a rainy day, and Monaco’s fireworks on the evening of the 18th if the programme confirms them. Avoid driving along the coast on Sunday the 8th.